The pandemic caused by Covid-19 has put all sports in a complex situation, which has generated the need to invent strategies to continue promoting and strengthening Sport Climbing on the continent. This is the case of the Venezuelan Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (FEVME ), who have taken advantage of the pandemic to maintain and strengthen the connections between athletes and coaches with other professionals in this sport.
Of the three activities that we carried out in June, only the first was coordinated through the Venezuelan Olympic Committee, together with the training program that the Committee has as an option for the pandemic.
The following two activities were organized by the Federation, initially for the reason that we were urged to develop training activities this year. We hope in future presentations to add the activities together with the Venezuelan Olympic Committee and work in an integrated way.
It is to give continuity to the work that the Federation has been doing and with the training plan for coaches, judges, owners and even athletes. We are taking advantage of the pandemic scenario to implement these training activities online. They have been , so far , professionals that already lead a process with the Federation.
The selection of topics was organized according to the need we have and the work we are carrying out in the Federation as part of the process of forming the multidisciplinary group. After that, it was coordinated with all the professionals of our country and the rest of the continent in order to exchange knowledge and knowledge.
In the end, all of this is intended to update us permanently.
Motivating athletes to train during the pandemic has been quite a difficult task, with the few supplies they have at home.Osdaly Haché, president FEVME
It has been very comprehensive range of public: young athletes, senior athletes, rock climbers, routesetters, judges, and public from other countries. In one of the workshops, with the psychologist Sandro Mazzucato, whose topic was the climber's psychological preparation, an intervention model for developing athletes, we had the participation of a 10-year-old female athlete, highly motivated to keep her activities in quarantine. That seems to us a very positive action, to the work that is being done.
We are still pending on topics with professionals from other branches , especially in the case of psychology that is a very big subject. Some sports psychology specialists have taken the initiative to develop more specific topics such as competition psychology and the cognitive development psychology of athletes. Soon we will have dates for these activities.
Emphasis has been made in various talks on how to resume activity after the pandemic, and how, from psychology and physical therapy , processes are created to prevent injuries.
Motivating athletes to train during the pandemic has been quite a difficult task, with the few supplies they have at home.
2020 we had planned a technical preparation module for coaches and owners . We were going to reactivate the course for judges, but unfortunately the situation had to pause these activities.
It is quite complex to develop this online training with such specific and practical activities. Because we do have a need for routesetters and judges, we also have a lot of people who love sports with an interest in form and contribute.
Athletes who make up the national preselection for both senior and youth have been followed up more. So that from home they can at least maintain their sports performance. For this we have had our coaches and our technical director monitoring and evaluating the development of our athletes in the midst of the pandemic. In addition to the work of building biosecurity protocols to restart our activities are expected to resume initially athletes who are part of the youth team and adult, so we could project the international events.
Apart from the physical part, we have been developing a training process with athletes, developing different activities that contribute to the development of their comprehensive training as high-performance athletes.
The intention is to provide the knowledge of our professionals, who have also voluntarily decided to contribute with their knowledge. All of this is with the intention of taking advantage of updating ourselves and finding tools to grow as the pandemic crisis passes.
"Light at the end of the tunnel" is the message given by Marco Scolaris, IFSC president at the start of the 2nd Pan American meeting.
Scolaris emphasized the efforts made by the IFSC to reinitiate sports activities with a special event in Briançon on August 21 and 22 of this year that will feature new safety and health measures and count with the support of the French and local authorities .
This special cup would be composed of standalone events and would not be adding points for the ranking, taking into account that not all countries will be able to participate and that the travel restrictions are different depending on the situation with Covid-19.
"There are already other event organizers who are willing to host this kind of adapted world cup with a Bouldering and Speed event in Salt Lake City in mid-September and then an event in Korea and one in China", said Scolaris.
The IFSC has shared a document with regulations and recommendations that has been updated weekly to adapt to the global situation of the pandemic.
The Pan American Climbing Council held its second virtual meeting on Friday, June 26, attended by María Izquierdo, president of the PAC, members of its board of directors, leaders of the National Federations, and Marco Scolaris and Piero Rebaudengo, President and CEO of the IFSC respectively.
Following Izquierdo's welcome, Scolaris gave an update on reviving sporting events with a special world cup kicking off at Briançon in August this year. With regard to Sport Climbing at the Pan American Games in 2023 Scolaris said: “We are in the right direction. Let's continue working hard and together as it has been until now ”
María Izquierdo gave a report on the current situation and the efforts made to include our sport in Santiago 2023.
The communications and events working committees followed with reports from each area and the first report from the newly created PAC Athletes Commission led by Stacey Weldon.
At the end of the meeting, each National Federation present was given time to give a snapshot of the handling of the Pandemic by each State regarding the opening of climbing gyms, reactivation in training and restarting sporting events given the common denominator of the uncertainty that may force further postponement of plans for the end of 2020 or the beginning of 2021.
From the beginnnings of June, the Pan American Climbing Council has started work sessions with the different commissions formed with the members of the Continent's National Federations with the objective to improve estatutes, events organization, communications and our first Athletes' Commission.
The meetings have been developed virtually to improve the relations between PAC and National Federations as to clarify doubts about current situation with Covid-19 and with sport events to be held by the end of 2020 or start of 2021.
From the main topics, the one that has generated more colaboration is the promotion of the Sport Climbing for it's inclusion at the Pan American Games of Santiago de Chile, 2023.
There will be a meeting next Friday 26th with the assistance of Marco Scolari and Piero Rebaudengo, president and general director of the IFSC respectively, and there will be presentations of the advances of each working group.
The first Athletes' Commission of the Pan American Climbing Council was created on June 1st when Stacey Weldon was elected president and it's members where included after the Pan American qualifiers for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games.
It's president, Stacey Weldon, is also the current president of the Canadian Climbing Federation (Climbing Escalade Canada - CEC).
The members are:
I've been climbing since I was 5 years old and competing since I was 8.
I've been competing in youth competitions in the US and internationally since then and have won 10 American youth titles and 2 World Youth titles.
Last year was the first year that I started competing with adults. I first did some small events and did some of the US nationals. I didn't really think much of it though. This year I started to do more adult comps and was doing better at them. To get selected to go to this comp, I placed second at the US combined nationals. I then started training for PanAms and the rest is history.
To train for the event, I tried to make sure I was at my peak performance in each discipline.
I've always been a more skilled lead climber so I put my effort into training boulders and speed so I'd be the best all around. I trained all types of boulders so I was ready for anything in the competition.
I'm glad the hard work paid off and I was able to do well on each boulder!
I was actually super happy with my speed performance!
I was a little disappointed to be the 8th seed since I placed 4th in the prequalification speed and then slipped in the qualifiers. Being the 8th seed, I wasn't surprised to lose my first race to Carlos but I was able to win out the losers bracket to get a solid position.
Since I'm still a highschool student, I realize how important academics are to my future and my career after climbing. I'm not exactly sure yet, but I think I want to be an engineer.
Yes, I think it gave me motivation for lead. Since we all had low ranking scores going into lead and every guy was climbing really strong, I was really motivated to give the lead route all I had.
Before my turn to lead, I heard the loud cheers for Sean so I was pretty sure he topped. When I first started the route the crowd was pretty tense but as I moved towards the last few moves their loud cheers helped push me to the top.
Being so young, the fact that I'm going to the Olympics is still taking a while to sink in. It's hard to fully grasp the implications this will have on my future. I'm excited that this is just the beginning of my career!
I've known Brooke since I was 8 years old and train with her pretty frequently. We climbed on the same climbing team, Team ABC, in Boulder, Colorado. While I don't know Nathaniel or Kyra very well, I look forward to building relationships with them ahead of the Olympics!
This is the schedule for Sport Climbing at the Youth Olympic Games of Buenos Aires 2018. All times are GMT-3
The Pan American Council is beginning a process of accreditation for primary event Officials, with the review and approval process during the end of 2018, and accreditation valid beginning in 2019. To attain accreditation as Pan American Chief Routesetter, or Pan American Jury President, the following conditions must be met:
Deadline to Submit Nominations: October 15, 2018
Review and Approval Process: After all nominations have been submitted, Secretary General of PAC and IFSC Chief Routesetter Chris Danielson will oversee a review of nominations, coordinating with National Federations and the IFSC Sport Department to review references and competition experiences. The PAC Executive Board will make final review of all nominations. Any Official confirmed as Pan American Chief Routesetter or Pan American Jury President will be informed of his/her approval and considered as appointed Officials for future Pan American competitions.
The review process is expected to be complete December 1, 2018, with publication of a Pan American Officials List planned for December 15, 2018