News

Venezuela beats Covid lockdown with online training

Venezuela beats Covid lockdown with online training

03 July 2020

The pandemic caused by Covid-19 has put all sports in a complex situation, which has generated the need to invent strategies to continue promoting and strengthening Sport Climbing on the continent. This is the case of the Venezuelan Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (FEVME ), who have taken advantage of the pandemic to maintain and strengthen the connections between athletes and coaches with other professionals in this sport.

Have all the courses been done in conjunction with the Venezuelan Olympic Committee? Or, what did I take with FEVME to start creating these courses? 

Of the three activities that we carried out in June, only the first was coordinated through the Venezuelan Olympic Committee, together with the training program that the Committee has as an option for the pandemic.

The following two activities were organized by the Federation, initially for the reason that we were urged to develop training activities this year. We hope in future presentations to add the activities together with the Venezuelan Olympic Committee and work in an integrated way.

Osdaly Haché, presidenta FEVME

How have the topics been selected?

It is to give continuity to the work that the Federation has been doing and with the training plan for coaches, judges, owners and even athletes. We are taking advantage of the pandemic scenario to implement these training activities online. They have been , so far , professionals that already lead a process with the Federation.

The selection of topics was organized according to the need we have and the work we are carrying out in the Federation as part of the process of forming the multidisciplinary group. After that, it was coordinated with all the professionals of our country and the rest of the continent in order to exchange knowledge and knowledge.     

In the end, all of this is intended to update us permanently.

Motivating athletes to train during the pandemic has been quite a difficult task, with the few supplies they have at home. 

Osdaly Haché, president FEVME

What kind of audience have the courses had?  

It has been very comprehensive range of public: young athletes, senior athletes, rock climbers, routesetters, judges, and public from other countries. In one of the workshops, with the psychologist Sandro Mazzucato, whose topic was the climber's psychological preparation, an intervention model for developing athletes, we had the participation of a 10-year-old female athlete, highly motivated to keep her activities in quarantine. That seems to us a very positive action, to the work that is being done.     

Have follow-up talks been held or have workshops been proposed for continuation? 

We are still pending on topics with professionals from other branches , especially in the case of psychology that is a very big subject. Some sports psychology specialists have taken the initiative to develop more specific topics such as competition psychology and the cognitive development psychology of athletes. Soon we will have dates for these activities. 

  • 2020 07 03 05

  • 2020 07 03 04

  • 2020 07 03 03

  • 2020 07 03 02

Have you taken advantage of these tools and talks to strengthen the current process of the federation?

Emphasis has been made in various talks on how to resume activity after the pandemic, and how, from psychology and physical therapy , processes are created to prevent injuries.

Motivating athletes to train during the pandemic has been quite a difficult task, with the few supplies they have at home. 

Within the needs that Latin America and the Federation have with judges and routesetters, have you thought of strategies? 

2020 we had planned a technical preparation module for coaches and owners . We were going to reactivate the course for judges, but unfortunately the situation had to pause these activities.  

It is quite complex to develop this online training with such specific and practical activities. Because we do have a need for routesetters and judges, we also have a lot of people who love sports with an interest in form and contribute.

How are the conditions of High Performance athletes, in the face of the pandemic? 

Athletes who make up the national preselection for both senior and youth have been followed up more. So that from home they can at least maintain their sports performance. For this we have had our coaches and our technical director monitoring and evaluating the development of our athletes in the midst of the pandemic. In addition to the work of building biosecurity protocols to restart our activities are expected to resume initially athletes who are part of the youth team and adult, so we could project the international events.

Apart from the physical part, we have been developing a training process with athletes, developing different activities that contribute to the development of their comprehensive training as high-performance athletes.

Have you seen the possibility of generating income for the FEVME from these courses?

The intention is to provide the knowledge of our professionals, who have also voluntarily decided to contribute with their knowledge. All of this is with the intention of taking advantage of updating ourselves and finding tools to grow as the pandemic crisis passes.

Light at the end of the tunnel

Light at the end of the tunnel

26 June 2020

"Light at the end of the tunnel" is the message given by Marco Scolaris, IFSC president at the start of the 2nd Pan American meeting.

Scolaris emphasized the efforts made by the IFSC to reinitiate sports activities with a special event in Briançon on August 21 and 22 of this year that will feature new safety and health measures and count with the support of the French and local authorities .

This special cup would be composed of standalone events and would not be adding points for the ranking, taking into account that not all countries will be able to participate and that the travel restrictions are different depending on the situation with Covid-19.

"There are already other event organizers who are willing to host this kind of adapted world cup with a Bouldering and Speed ​​event in Salt Lake City in mid-September and then an event in Korea and one in China", said Scolaris.

The IFSC has shared a document with regulations and recommendations that  has been updated weekly to adapt to the global situation of the pandemic.

2nd Pan-American Meeting

2nd Pan-American Meeting

26 June 2020

The Pan American Climbing Council held its second virtual meeting on Friday, June 26, attended by María Izquierdo, president of the PAC, members of its board of directors, leaders of the National Federations, and Marco Scolaris and Piero Rebaudengo, President and CEO of the IFSC respectively.

Following Izquierdo's welcome, Scolaris gave an update on reviving sporting events with a special world cup kicking off at Briançon in August this year. With regard to Sport Climbing at the Pan American Games in 2023 Scolaris said: “We are in the right direction. Let's continue working hard and together as it has been until now ”

María Izquierdo gave a report on the current situation and the efforts made to include our sport in Santiago 2023.

The communications and events working committees followed with reports from each area and the first report from the newly created PAC Athletes Commission led by Stacey Weldon.

At the end of the meeting, each National Federation present was given time to give a snapshot of the handling of the Pandemic by each State regarding the opening of climbing gyms, reactivation in training and restarting sporting events given the common denominator of the uncertainty that may force further postponement  of plans for the end of 2020 or the beginning of 2021.

Pan American comissions to start work sessions

Pan American comissions to start work sessions

12 June 2020

From the beginnnings of June, the Pan American Climbing Council has started work sessions with the different commissions formed with the members of the Continent's National Federations with the objective to improve estatutes, events organization, communications and our first Athletes' Commission.

The meetings have been developed virtually to improve the relations between PAC and National Federations as to clarify doubts about current situation with Covid-19 and with sport events to be held by the end of 2020 or start of 2021.

From the main topics, the one that has generated more colaboration is the promotion of the Sport Climbing for it's inclusion at the Pan American Games of Santiago de Chile, 2023.

There will be a meeting next Friday 26th with the assistance of Marco Scolari and Piero Rebaudengo, president and general director of the IFSC respectively, and there will be presentations of the advances of each working group.

 

Interview: Colin Duffy

Interview: Colin Duffy

05 March 2020

Interview:

Colin Duffy

Colin Duffy

Colin, How was your Journey before the PanAms?
How long have you been climbing? How did you get selected?

I've been climbing since I was 5 years old and competing since I was 8. 

I've been competing in youth competitions in the US and internationally since then and have won 10 American youth titles and 2 World Youth titles.

Last year was the first year that I started competing with adults. I first did some small events and did some of the US nationals. I didn't really think much of it though. This year I started to do more adult comps and was doing better at them. To get selected to go to this comp, I placed second at the US combined nationals. I then started training for PanAms and the rest is history. 

How was that training for this event?
Was it always like this or is this the result of a planning for qualification?

To train for the event, I tried to make sure I was at my peak performance in each discipline.

I've always been a more skilled lead climber so I put my effort into training boulders and speed so I'd be the best all around. I trained all types of boulders so I was ready for anything in the competition.

I'm glad the hard work paid off and I was able to do well on each boulder!

After Speed round Zach was first but you were 5th and Ecuadorians were pushing hard. Did this disappointed you? Was it a surprise or it was an expected result you’d overcome later in Bouldering and Lead?

I was actually super happy with my speed performance!

I was a little disappointed to be the 8th seed since I placed 4th in the prequalification speed and then slipped in the qualifiers. Being the 8th seed, I wasn't surprised to lose my first race to Carlos but I was able to win out the losers bracket to get a solid position.

Studies and climbing will need perfect sync. Have you already thought on which career you'll take in the future?

Since I'm still a highschool student, I realize how important academics are to my future and my career after climbing. I'm not exactly sure yet, but I think I want to be an engineer. 

Bouldering was dominated by American athletes. Do you think this result boosted your performance later in Lead round?

Yes, I think it gave me motivation for lead. Since we all had low ranking scores going into lead and every guy was climbing really strong, I was really motivated to give the lead route all I had.

Before my turn to lead, I heard the loud cheers for Sean so I was pretty sure he topped. When I first started the route the crowd was pretty tense but as I moved towards the last few moves their loud cheers helped push me to the top. 

An Olympian at 16. Have you felt the meaning of it?

Being so young, the fact that I'm going to the Olympics is still taking a while to sink in. It's hard to fully grasp the implications this will have on my future. I'm excited that this is just the beginning of my career!

Have you talked to your teammates?

I've known Brooke since I was 8 years old and train with her pretty frequently. We climbed on the same climbing team, Team ABC, in Boulder, Colorado. While I don't know Nathaniel or Kyra very well, I look forward to building relationships with them ahead of the Olympics!

YOG Buenos Aires 2018 - Sport Climbing schedule

YOG Buenos Aires 2018 - Sport Climbing schedule

23 September 2018

This is the schedule for Sport Climbing at the Youth Olympic Games of Buenos Aires 2018.  All times are GMT-3

Sunday, October 7th (7/10)

  • 09:00-09:25 Women's Combined Qualification (Speed)
  • 11:00-13:15 Women's Combined Qualification (Bouldering)
  • 15:00-16:30 Women's Combined Qualification (Lead)

Monday, October 8th (8/10)

  • 09:00-09:25 Men's Combined Qualification (Speed)
  • 11:00-13:15 Men's Combined Qualification (Bouldering)
  • 15:00-16:30 Men's Combined Qualification (Lead)

Tuesday, October 9th (9/10)

  • 10:00-10:20 Women's Combined Final (Speed)
  • 11:45-13:20 Women's Combined Final (Bouldering)
  • 15:50-17:05 Women's Combined Final (Lead)
  • Following Victory Ceremony / Ceremonia de Victoria

Wednesday, October 10th (10/10)

  • 10:00-10:20 Men's Combined Final (Speed)
  • 11:45-13:20 Men's Combined Final (Bouldering)
  • 15:50-17:05 Men's Combined Final (Lead)
  • Following Victory Ceremony / Ceremonia de Victoria
Chief Routesetters and Jury President Pan American Accreditations

Chief Routesetters and Jury President Pan American Accreditations

22 September 2018

The Pan American Council is beginning a process of accreditation for primary event Officials, with the review and approval process during the end of 2018, and accreditation valid beginning in 2019. To attain accreditation as Pan American Chief Routesetter, or Pan American Jury President, the following conditions must be met:

  • The National Federation must be a current member federation of the IFSC and be current with membership dues to the IFSC and Pan American Council.
  • The National Federation Official must have worked (meaning nominated and contracted, for the full duration of a competition) as a Routesetter or Judge:
    • A minimum of 2 IFSC World Cup, World Championship, and/or Pan American Championship competitions AND/OR a minimum of 10 National Championship or other IFSC International events that may be considered equivalent (such as Masters competitions, World Games, Youth Continental Cup/Championships).
    • A minimum of 4 Chief Routesetter or Jury President/Chief Judge experiences National level. 
    • A minimum of at least 2 different countries.

Nomination Process: National Federations submit nominations for Officials; they should not be submitted directly by the Officials, unless the Official is also the primary representative of the National Federation. Please submit a nomination via email for Officials to be considered, to PAC Secretary General, Chris Danielson (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. document.getElementById('cloak2d4195815c2e100a62f6b0cd7082a911').innerHTML = ''; var prefix = 'ma' + 'il' + 'to'; var path = 'hr' + 'ef' + '='; var addy2d4195815c2e100a62f6b0cd7082a911 = 'pac_secgen' + '@'; addy2d4195815c2e100a62f6b0cd7082a911 = addy2d4195815c2e100a62f6b0cd7082a911 + 'ifsc-climbing' + '.' + 'org'; var addy_text2d4195815c2e100a62f6b0cd7082a911 = 'pac_secgen' + '@' + 'ifsc-climbing' + '.' + 'org';document.getElementById('cloak2d4195815c2e100a62f6b0cd7082a911').innerHTML += ''+addy_text2d4195815c2e100a62f6b0cd7082a911+''; ), and PAC President in Cc : (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. document.getElementById('cloakd32254a82fe8da0158ec925ff25db162').innerHTML = ''; var prefix = 'ma' + 'il' + 'to'; var path = 'hr' + 'ef' + '='; var addyd32254a82fe8da0158ec925ff25db162 = 'maria.izquierdo' + '@'; addyd32254a82fe8da0158ec925ff25db162 = addyd32254a82fe8da0158ec925ff25db162 + 'ifsc-climbing' + '.' + 'org'; var addy_textd32254a82fe8da0158ec925ff25db162 = 'maria.izquierdo' + '@' + 'ifsc-climbing' + '.' + 'org';document.getElementById('cloakd32254a82fe8da0158ec925ff25db162').innerHTML += ''+addy_textd32254a82fe8da0158ec925ff25db162+''; ). The following information must be included :

  • Letter on official National Federation letterhead, recommending the Official for consideration.
  • Official’s full name and contact information including address, email and phone.
  • Official’s Resume/CV including at least 2 references.
  • National Federations should also provide documentation of their National Officials system (certification/education/levels), for PAC to review, if available.

Deadline to Submit Nominations: October 15, 2018

Review and Approval Process: After all nominations have been submitted, Secretary General of PAC and IFSC Chief Routesetter Chris Danielson will oversee a review of nominations, coordinating with National Federations and the IFSC Sport Department to review references and competition experiences. The PAC Executive Board will make final review of all nominations. Any Official confirmed as Pan American Chief Routesetter or Pan American Jury President will be informed of his/her approval and considered as appointed Officials for future Pan American competitions.

The review process is expected to be complete December 1, 2018, with publication of a Pan American Officials List planned for December 15, 2018

Contact Us

This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Acceso