Light at the end of the tunnel

Light at the end of the tunnel

26 June 2020

"Light at the end of the tunnel" is the message given by Marco Scolaris, IFSC president at the start of the 2nd Pan American meeting.

Scolaris emphasized the efforts made by the IFSC to reinitiate sports activities with a special event in Briançon on August 21 and 22 of this year that will feature new safety and health measures and count with the support of the French and local authorities .

This special cup would be composed of standalone events and would not be adding points for the ranking, taking into account that not all countries will be able to participate and that the travel restrictions are different depending on the situation with Covid-19.

"There are already other event organizers who are willing to host this kind of adapted world cup with a Bouldering and Speed ​​event in Salt Lake City in mid-September and then an event in Korea and one in China", said Scolaris.

The IFSC has shared a document with regulations and recommendations that  has been updated weekly to adapt to the global situation of the pandemic.

2nd Pan-American Meeting

2nd Pan-American Meeting

26 June 2020

The Pan American Climbing Council held its second virtual meeting on Friday, June 26, attended by María Izquierdo, president of the PAC, members of its board of directors, leaders of the National Federations, and Marco Scolaris and Piero Rebaudengo, President and CEO of the IFSC respectively.

Following Izquierdo's welcome, Scolaris gave an update on reviving sporting events with a special world cup kicking off at Briançon in August this year. With regard to Sport Climbing at the Pan American Games in 2023 Scolaris said: “We are in the right direction. Let's continue working hard and together as it has been until now ”

María Izquierdo gave a report on the current situation and the efforts made to include our sport in Santiago 2023.

The communications and events working committees followed with reports from each area and the first report from the newly created PAC Athletes Commission led by Stacey Weldon.

At the end of the meeting, each National Federation present was given time to give a snapshot of the handling of the Pandemic by each State regarding the opening of climbing gyms, reactivation in training and restarting sporting events given the common denominator of the uncertainty that may force further postponement  of plans for the end of 2020 or the beginning of 2021.

Pan American comissions to start work sessions

Pan American comissions to start work sessions

12 June 2020

From the beginnnings of June, the Pan American Climbing Council has started work sessions with the different commissions formed with the members of the Continent's National Federations with the objective to improve estatutes, events organization, communications and our first Athletes' Commission.

The meetings have been developed virtually to improve the relations between PAC and National Federations as to clarify doubts about current situation with Covid-19 and with sport events to be held by the end of 2020 or start of 2021.

From the main topics, the one that has generated more colaboration is the promotion of the Sport Climbing for it's inclusion at the Pan American Games of Santiago de Chile, 2023.

There will be a meeting next Friday 26th with the assistance of Marco Scolari and Piero Rebaudengo, president and general director of the IFSC respectively, and there will be presentations of the advances of each working group.


Interview: Colin Duffy

Interview: Colin Duffy

05 March 2020


Colin Duffy

Colin Duffy

Colin, How was your Journey before the PanAms?
How long have you been climbing? How did you get selected?

I've been climbing since I was 5 years old and competing since I was 8. 

I've been competing in youth competitions in the US and internationally since then and have won 10 American youth titles and 2 World Youth titles.

Last year was the first year that I started competing with adults. I first did some small events and did some of the US nationals. I didn't really think much of it though. This year I started to do more adult comps and was doing better at them. To get selected to go to this comp, I placed second at the US combined nationals. I then started training for PanAms and the rest is history. 

How was that training for this event?
Was it always like this or is this the result of a planning for qualification?

To train for the event, I tried to make sure I was at my peak performance in each discipline.

I've always been a more skilled lead climber so I put my effort into training boulders and speed so I'd be the best all around. I trained all types of boulders so I was ready for anything in the competition.

I'm glad the hard work paid off and I was able to do well on each boulder!

After Speed round Zach was first but you were 5th and Ecuadorians were pushing hard. Did this disappointed you? Was it a surprise or it was an expected result you’d overcome later in Bouldering and Lead?

I was actually super happy with my speed performance!

I was a little disappointed to be the 8th seed since I placed 4th in the prequalification speed and then slipped in the qualifiers. Being the 8th seed, I wasn't surprised to lose my first race to Carlos but I was able to win out the losers bracket to get a solid position.

Studies and climbing will need perfect sync. Have you already thought on which career you'll take in the future?

Since I'm still a highschool student, I realize how important academics are to my future and my career after climbing. I'm not exactly sure yet, but I think I want to be an engineer. 

Bouldering was dominated by American athletes. Do you think this result boosted your performance later in Lead round?

Yes, I think it gave me motivation for lead. Since we all had low ranking scores going into lead and every guy was climbing really strong, I was really motivated to give the lead route all I had.

Before my turn to lead, I heard the loud cheers for Sean so I was pretty sure he topped. When I first started the route the crowd was pretty tense but as I moved towards the last few moves their loud cheers helped push me to the top. 

An Olympian at 16. Have you felt the meaning of it?

Being so young, the fact that I'm going to the Olympics is still taking a while to sink in. It's hard to fully grasp the implications this will have on my future. I'm excited that this is just the beginning of my career!

Have you talked to your teammates?

I've known Brooke since I was 8 years old and train with her pretty frequently. We climbed on the same climbing team, Team ABC, in Boulder, Colorado. While I don't know Nathaniel or Kyra very well, I look forward to building relationships with them ahead of the Olympics!

YOG Buenos Aires 2018 - Sport Climbing schedule

YOG Buenos Aires 2018 - Sport Climbing schedule

23 September 2018

This is the schedule for Sport Climbing at the Youth Olympic Games of Buenos Aires 2018.  All times are GMT-3

Sunday, October 7th (7/10)

  • 09:00-09:25 Women's Combined Qualification (Speed)
  • 11:00-13:15 Women's Combined Qualification (Bouldering)
  • 15:00-16:30 Women's Combined Qualification (Lead)

Monday, October 8th (8/10)

  • 09:00-09:25 Men's Combined Qualification (Speed)
  • 11:00-13:15 Men's Combined Qualification (Bouldering)
  • 15:00-16:30 Men's Combined Qualification (Lead)

Tuesday, October 9th (9/10)

  • 10:00-10:20 Women's Combined Final (Speed)
  • 11:45-13:20 Women's Combined Final (Bouldering)
  • 15:50-17:05 Women's Combined Final (Lead)
  • Following Victory Ceremony / Ceremonia de Victoria

Wednesday, October 10th (10/10)

  • 10:00-10:20 Men's Combined Final (Speed)
  • 11:45-13:20 Men's Combined Final (Bouldering)
  • 15:50-17:05 Men's Combined Final (Lead)
  • Following Victory Ceremony / Ceremonia de Victoria
Chief Routesetters and Jury President Pan American Accreditations

Chief Routesetters and Jury President Pan American Accreditations

22 September 2018

The Pan American Council is beginning a process of accreditation for primary event Officials, with the review and approval process during the end of 2018, and accreditation valid beginning in 2019. To attain accreditation as Pan American Chief Routesetter, or Pan American Jury President, the following conditions must be met:

  • The National Federation must be a current member federation of the IFSC and be current with membership dues to the IFSC and Pan American Council.
  • The National Federation Official must have worked (meaning nominated and contracted, for the full duration of a competition) as a Routesetter or Judge:
    • A minimum of 2 IFSC World Cup, World Championship, and/or Pan American Championship competitions AND/OR a minimum of 10 National Championship or other IFSC International events that may be considered equivalent (such as Masters competitions, World Games, Youth Continental Cup/Championships).
    • A minimum of 4 Chief Routesetter or Jury President/Chief Judge experiences National level. 
    • A minimum of at least 2 different countries.

Nomination Process: National Federations submit nominations for Officials; they should not be submitted directly by the Officials, unless the Official is also the primary representative of the National Federation. Please submit a nomination via email for Officials to be considered, to PAC Secretary General, Chris Danielson (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. document.getElementById('cloake64bb572caca9f356248f0596210072a').innerHTML = ''; var prefix = 'ma' + 'il' + 'to'; var path = 'hr' + 'ef' + '='; var addye64bb572caca9f356248f0596210072a = 'pac_secgen' + '@'; addye64bb572caca9f356248f0596210072a = addye64bb572caca9f356248f0596210072a + 'ifsc-climbing' + '.' + 'org'; var addy_texte64bb572caca9f356248f0596210072a = 'pac_secgen' + '@' + 'ifsc-climbing' + '.' + 'org';document.getElementById('cloake64bb572caca9f356248f0596210072a').innerHTML += ''+addy_texte64bb572caca9f356248f0596210072a+''; ), and PAC President in Cc : (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. document.getElementById('cloaka7b36298d1489c3dcdbc07668f76744d').innerHTML = ''; var prefix = 'ma' + 'il' + 'to'; var path = 'hr' + 'ef' + '='; var addya7b36298d1489c3dcdbc07668f76744d = 'maria.izquierdo' + '@'; addya7b36298d1489c3dcdbc07668f76744d = addya7b36298d1489c3dcdbc07668f76744d + 'ifsc-climbing' + '.' + 'org'; var addy_texta7b36298d1489c3dcdbc07668f76744d = 'maria.izquierdo' + '@' + 'ifsc-climbing' + '.' + 'org';document.getElementById('cloaka7b36298d1489c3dcdbc07668f76744d').innerHTML += ''+addy_texta7b36298d1489c3dcdbc07668f76744d+''; ). The following information must be included :

  • Letter on official National Federation letterhead, recommending the Official for consideration.
  • Official’s full name and contact information including address, email and phone.
  • Official’s Resume/CV including at least 2 references.
  • National Federations should also provide documentation of their National Officials system (certification/education/levels), for PAC to review, if available.

Deadline to Submit Nominations: October 15, 2018

Review and Approval Process: After all nominations have been submitted, Secretary General of PAC and IFSC Chief Routesetter Chris Danielson will oversee a review of nominations, coordinating with National Federations and the IFSC Sport Department to review references and competition experiences. The PAC Executive Board will make final review of all nominations. Any Official confirmed as Pan American Chief Routesetter or Pan American Jury President will be informed of his/her approval and considered as appointed Officials for future Pan American competitions.

The review process is expected to be complete December 1, 2018, with publication of a Pan American Officials List planned for December 15, 2018

Updates on the 2018 Pan American Championships

Updates on the 2018 Pan American Championships

22 September 2018

The IFSC Pan American Council Board is pleased to confirm the 2018 Pan American Championships hosted by Ecuador from the 21st to the 26th of November.

2017 12 12The venue for this new Championship edition will be the Alberto Spencer Stadium, Sports Climbing Complex "Guayaquil" in Guayaquil, Ecuador and will feature Boulder, Lead and Speed as individual disciplines plus a combined final for the 6 best overall athletes

For this event, the quotas for each National Federation will be:

  • Maximum of 6 athletes per NF, per gender in each discipline (Boulder, Sport, Speed)
  • Competitors must be 16 years of age by December 31st, 2018
  • 2 extra quota for host country
  • Extra quota that can  also participate, additional to the above, are all age-eligible athletes in any discipline, who have:
    • Current Adult World Champion status (from Innsbruck WCH 2018)
    • World Youth Champion status (from Moscow WYCH 2018)
    • Pan American Youth Champion status (from Montreal PAYCH 2017) 

All registrations must be made through the IFSC Online Registration System before November 14, 2018 at midnight

The event is organized by Ecuadorian Sport Climbing Federation (FEDAN) under the guidance of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and Pan American Council (PAC).

Contact of the local organizing committee:

  • Event Director:  José Moreano Díaz.
    • Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. document.getElementById('cloak12c89f6a0e33e5adaa6dd0cb19325456').innerHTML = ''; var prefix = 'ma' + 'il' + 'to'; var path = 'hr' + 'ef' + '='; var addy12c89f6a0e33e5adaa6dd0cb19325456 = 'moreanodiaz' + '@'; addy12c89f6a0e33e5adaa6dd0cb19325456 = addy12c89f6a0e33e5adaa6dd0cb19325456 + 'gmail' + '.' + 'com'; var addy_text12c89f6a0e33e5adaa6dd0cb19325456 = 'moreanodiaz' + '@' + 'gmail' + '.' + 'com';document.getElementById('cloak12c89f6a0e33e5adaa6dd0cb19325456').innerHTML += ''+addy_text12c89f6a0e33e5adaa6dd0cb19325456+'';
    • Phone: (+593) 3294-0950 / (+593) 969 213 419
  • Responsible for the event: Marco Precilla
    • Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. document.getElementById('cloak740b79b4645cfcc562eeef7039158122').innerHTML = ''; var prefix = 'ma' + 'il' + 'to'; var path = 'hr' + 'ef' + '='; var addy740b79b4645cfcc562eeef7039158122 = 'mprecillainez' + '@'; addy740b79b4645cfcc562eeef7039158122 = addy740b79b4645cfcc562eeef7039158122 + 'yahoo' + '.' + 'com'; var addy_text740b79b4645cfcc562eeef7039158122 = 'mprecillainez' + '@' + 'yahoo' + '.' + 'com';document.getElementById('cloak740b79b4645cfcc562eeef7039158122').innerHTML += ''+addy_text740b79b4645cfcc562eeef7039158122+'';
    • Phone: (+593) 3294-0950
  • Communications Coordinator: Oscar Yépes Gómez
    • Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. document.getElementById('cloak5931e6e1f1039f0db9a6f77205ccb7a4').innerHTML = ''; var prefix = 'ma' + 'il' + 'to'; var path = 'hr' + 'ef' + '='; var addy5931e6e1f1039f0db9a6f77205ccb7a4 = 'oscaryepezgomez' + '@'; addy5931e6e1f1039f0db9a6f77205ccb7a4 = addy5931e6e1f1039f0db9a6f77205ccb7a4 + 'gmail' + '.' + 'com'; var addy_text5931e6e1f1039f0db9a6f77205ccb7a4 = 'oscaryepezgomez' + '@' + 'gmail' + '.' + 'com';document.getElementById('cloak5931e6e1f1039f0db9a6f77205ccb7a4').innerHTML += ''+addy_text5931e6e1f1039f0db9a6f77205ccb7a4+'';  

 IFSC PAC Officials for the event:

  • Technical Delegate: María Izquierdo
  • Jury President: TBD
  • Chief Routesetter: TBD

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